Caye Caulker

Getting there

After settling up with Budget in Belize City we took the water taxi out to Caye Caulker. Our first impression wasn't great. The sargassum on the beach smells like sewage in certain spots, and for a few minutes we wondered whether the second half of the trip could live up to the first. That changed fast. The smell is real but you can avoid it most of the time, and the island won us over within a day.

Iguana Reef Inn

Our favorite spot on the island. There's a little beach where the staff feed the stingrays sardines every day, so the rays come right in, swim over your legs, bump against you, and let you scratch them. Somebody told Cassie that rays are the dogs of the sea, and after this we believe it.

The sun sets directly in front of the inn over the water. There's a swing built out over the shallows where the local kids play, so you watch the sunset through a swing full of kids with the water lit up behind them. One evening a crocodile came out and started swimming, far from anyone, and everybody scattered anyway. We found the place on Friday night and went back on Saturday because it was our last night and nothing else made sense.

Chef RP's

A few doors down from our Airbnb, a man was standing alone at his little restaurant hoping someone would stop. We did. RP turned out to stand for Roberto and Perla. Roberto built the structure, the tables, everything, on a lot he doesn't even own, and Perla cooks and bakes pies. John had pork shoulder, Cassie had chicken, both with plantains, rice, and beans, and John's flan was excellent. We gave Roberto a few small suggestions on his menu and signage, and he seemed genuinely glad to have them. It got John thinking about a nonprofit that just helps small businesses like this one with advice, tools, and a little money.

Rocky's

A family restaurant run by Rocky and his wife Elena, with Oscar and a younger guy named Shane helping out. We met their daughter and grandkids too. Rocky's jerk chicken and Cassie's jerk salmon were some of the best food of the trip.

Shane stuck with us. He's married to an American, has kids with her, and has been turned down for a US visa because he has no assets in Belize. The application cost him 300 Belize dollars, which is a lot when you're living on a few hundred a month. He's sharp, energetic, and good with people, the kind of guy who'd be hired into any sales job in the States in a week. He's stuck at a little restaurant on Caye Caulker instead. That one stayed with us.