San Ignacio

San Ignacio is the bigger town across the river from Santa Elena and the hub for the whole Cayo District. Most of the tours leave from here, and it's where we ended up whenever we wanted to eat out.

Crave

Ken and Virginia warned us that Crave was spotty, sometimes great and sometimes not. We got lucky. John had a white fish with mashed potatoes that was simple and extremely well done, and dessert was a gluten-free, dairy-free chocolate thing that had no business being as good as it was.

We ate there with Kevin and Adrian, an American couple we'd met on the ATM cave tour that morning. He's an engineer and she's an occupational therapist, and it turned out they were staying at the same place we were. Meeting people and then running into them again at your own Airbnb is the kind of thing that only happens in a town this size.

The police station

San Ignacio's station is where the wreck paperwork was supposed to get finished. The officer was apologetic: the report takes five weeks, he's supposed to hand out a receipt you can use to collect it later, and his receipt book was used up. He took our email and promised to send one by Friday. It is what it is.