Waterfall Rappelling

This was the physical high point of the trip, and possibly the most beautiful place either of us has been.

The hike in is about three and a half miles through the jungle, up and over cliffs. Some of it would never fly with a US outfitter: you climb steep sections on little ropes, and in a few spots there's nothing to grab and you just go. One woman on the tour slipped off the trail and was caught by a tree. Everyone kept going. Belizeans take a lot more risk than we're used to, on the trail and on the road.

Then the waterfalls start. First a tiny one, maybe 18 inches. Behind it, a crystal-clear blue pool with vines hanging down, which we swam across. Then a 12- to 15-foot waterfall, a slot canyon, a 20-foot waterfall, and behind that a warm lazy river you swim through to reach the big one. The final rappel is about 35 feet straight down the face of the waterfall.

Cassie went first. John went second, and by his own account did not do better than she did. On the way in the guides offered us termites to eat, and we accepted.

The weather was easier than we'd braced for. Hot and humid on paper, but in the shade it felt fine, and the bugs were almost nonexistent. John had twisted an ankle a couple of days earlier and had to be careful on the rocks and stream crossings, but it didn't matter. We got back completely spent, skipped going out, and spent the evening in the pool at Villa Cayo.